Florence, Italy Firenze Italia

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

I have been quite busy lately . . . you may see images of the “blow-up doll incident” in my Facebook photo album titled “Friends – Album VI” if you like. Seriously, I am working a lot as well, but one must always stop to smell the roses, even if sometimes the smells are not so sweet. One of the problems that I have getting to and from the studio in Florence, Italy is that I stop to record images whenever something interests me.

I am a bit nervous because once they remove the marble art installation by Mimmo Paladino in Piazza Santa Croce today, they will probably move in the “new oil” market that celebrates this year’s olive harvest. After that, . . . drumroll please . . . my favorite event there: The German Christmas Market! Oh, the gluvine (mulled spiced wine): My second favorite way to keep warm!

So, the butterflies you see over the Ponte Vecchio (and in a clear plastic box lined with a mirror on the floor in Piazza della Signoria) is a current celebration of the many individual Tuscan wines. I must admit that while I am not fussy about much, I actually prefer the wines from Sicily and Sardinia. For me to even remember that much is pretty astonishing really, because I never remember names of even the wines I love. Anyway, the “flutterbies” as my mom calls them are lovely and a fun temporary exhibit. The geometric marble sculpture of a figure is part of the Cross of marble by Mimmo Paladino. It was part of the Florens 2012 cultural celebration I wrote about earlier. It is over today.

The last images are of The Broggi-Caraceni Villino. I had never seen a dog here and this German Shepherd just looked wonderful.

So, while I am off to the studio now, I just wanted to remind you that books make great gifts. My book “My Life as a Street Painter in Florence, Italy” is available from my own Web site, from myself and another location in Florence, as well as on several Amazon sites around the world. If you buy one from me here in Italia, I would be thrilled to sign it to you or whomever you wish. Here is a link to the list of Amazon pages for your convenience in online ordering (see the right side column): www.borsheimarts.com/newsletter.htm

Florens 2012 Culture Week Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

Here are a few more images of Firenze during this celebration of culture called Florens 2012.

I went to see my friend Alessandro again this evening and he said that yesterday, Sunday, was very beautiful because there were TONS of children out climbing all over the marble chunks. He thinks that if children enjoy art, it is a success. [Unfortunately for those who like my photos, I had decided to stay home and work all day alone.] Also, In Piazza del Duomo there are bunches of apparently centuries-old olive trees making the Baptistry look more like the Garden of Eden (ok, a slight exaggeration). Inside there are three sculptures of Jesus Christ on the cross. Each of the three crucifixes were sculpted by one of the great Florentine Renaissance Masters Michelangelo, Donatello and Filippo Brunelleschi, borrowed from their homes in the churches of Santo Spirito, Santa Maria Novella, and Santa Croce. They, as well as the olive trees and marble cross installation, will be in exhibit through 11 November.

In one of the images here of a little girl sitting in the “O” you will see a roughly drawn red circle. That was once my bedroom window. I really enjoyed living there and seeing all of the changing life in the piazza.

Calcio Santa Croce Florence

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

I am not a big sports fan, although I loved watching the Olympics. However, if you catch me watching some kind of game, it is more because I want to be around the people who are fans.

Calcio (soccer) is an extremely popular sport in Europe, and Italians are quite addicted. The first time I noticed an entire group of guys in a pub, all facing the same way whether standing or seated, extending their heads beyond a reasonable posture, mouths dropped open, eyes glued forward in a hypnotic stare, I thought that I had just walked into a strip show. No, only calcio -- on TV even.

June 24 is a Florentine holiday. There is the annual Festa di San Giovanni, to celebrate the patron saint of Florence. I wrote about the Bapistry of San Giovanni (St. John) earlier. Typically there is a parade throughout the historical center of Florence, which would naturally include the traditional sbandierattore, flag wavers.

Then there is a Calcio Storico match in Piazza Santa Croce, which I show you the makeshift stadium here. The entire piazza inside of the bleachers gets fills with sand. This historical game is traditionally more violent than a normal gioca di calcio and a couple of years ago, after some serious injuries, the games were stopped. They resumed last year, but still people tell me if you enjoy watching fighting, this might be the event for you. 30 men from each side battle in the sand.

All this is finished up with a pretty good display of fireworks shooting over Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo. Last year I was impressed with how long the fireworks lasted. They are best seen from the three bridges closest to Piazzale Michelangelo. Fireworks are more lovely when reflected in the River Arno.

So, get ready for the Festa di San Giovanni in Florence, Italy, and . . .
Happy Summer Solstice today!

Santa Croce Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

There are becoming too many moments now in which I desperately wished to have a good camera with me. Tonight was splendid and I lost a magnificent opportunity to create better images. The moon was full over Basilica di Santa Croce here in Florence, Italy.

Even though I had a bike basket full of groceries for the next week, I think I spent twenty minutes either just standing alone in the piazza looking up or taking shots such as this one. I was surprised that at 9 p.m. Piazza Santa Croce was empty, save for a few American tourists and the waiting taxi drivers nearby. But then, it was dinner hour(s) in Italia.

Bicycle in Florence, Italy

For some reason I love hearing my name called out in the street -- gives a city a small-town feel. Today it was my friend Lisa whose voice stopped me. Our schedules have changed recently and we do not get to see each other as often as before. I miss hanging out with her. Allora, she caught me as I was riding down Via Fiesolana and she took this image of me with my new bike. I was headed to the station to buy a train ticket for tomorrow evening.

Besides being fun, my bike has also been a big help: I am still moving into my new place, slowly taking art supplies from storage and bringing them home on my bike. On my way tonight, I passed Piazza Santa Croce and I am wishing that I would be here in Florence when the event they are putting up all of these bleachers for happens. But instead, I am heading to the mountains near Austria for the weekend.

Ciao, ciao,
Kelly

Leather Shoes Florence Italy

Back around 1997 when I was working as a copyeditor at hoovers.com in Austin, Texas, US, my coworker Regan gave me her old leather lace-up shoes. I love them.

Then in September 2006, I was walking down Via dei Pepi in Florence, Italy, when I was coaxed into a shoe repair place by a man about my age, Giuseppe, and an older man. They were kind enough and I politely looked around their neighboring tiny shops before resuming my course. I had never had shoes professionally repaired before, apparently preferring to “Shoe-Goo” them until they are completely ruined.

Giuseppe ran after me in the street and dropped something into my drawing bag, saying, “segreto” while placing one finger across his lips. I was a bit confused, but thanked him, and we exchanged names and smiles. And this is the way one learns Italian. (The something turned out to be some clear shoe polish in a vertical tube: un regalo, a gift, and apparently a secret one. Hence the reason I am posting this blog, right!)

Then one morning last fall in Florence, I ran into a new friend, Maria. She held a pair of lovely boots in her hand and was searching for a repair place. So, remembering my exchange with Giuseppe, I gave her direxions to Via dei Pepi. Maria was pleased with the service and the negotiated price.

With rain for many days in a row, I recently had to admit that my cherished leather lace-ups were separating at the toe of the soles. Always being shy about bargaining, Maria offered to go with me. We met the older man, a real charmer. Maria told him that she was from Spain and since he loved to travel, the bartering went very well. It also helped that we live here. He handed me a copy of an article that had been written about him in a newspaper, describing him as a giramondo (world traveler).

When I returned at lunch, I had caught the 84-year-old Signore Carmine taking a nap, as though he were simply waiting for my return before closing up shop at 13:00. I had asked him only to repair the separating toe (and not the worn-out heal), but he must have decided that was just wrong. In addition to the repair I had asked for, he cleaned and polished my old shoes, giving them new life. He was so charming. He seemed genuinely happy to see me and even took my hand, pulled back the mitten a little, and kissed my wrist, exclaiming, “Che bella!”

So, my shoes can be worn in the rain again safely, I had a lovely experience, and now I look forward to walking down Via dei Pepi even more than before.

If you find yourself in Florence, Italy, in need of anything shoe- or leather-related, feel free to walk down this street not too far from Piazza Santa Croce. Here is the address:

Petrocelli Giuseppe
Lavorazione e Riparazione
Pelletteria e Scarpe
Via dei Pepi, 28-30 R (R stands for the red lettered address numbers)
50122 Firenze, Italia
Tel. 055 2345099

Picnic in Piazza Santa Croce - Florence, Italy

Today was one of those incredibly beautiful autumn days that feel a bit summery. At least while in the sun. Even though most buildings in Florence average only four or five stories tall, the streets are rather narrow, usually with one-way traffic only. Some places probably never see the sun. It can be difficult to photograph this city’s charms, and even more difficult to know how to dress if one plans to be out for more than two hours.

However, this afternoon was to be enjoyed and I invited my friend Lisa O’Neil over for a picnic. We packed a traditional Tuscan lunch and took downstairs with us a blanket, porcelain plates, real forks, food, and glasses of wine. And we spent the standard amount of time for Italians to relax and enjoy a meal – longer than most Americans would have. It was truly lovely. And the piazza (square) was full of life.

Shortly after we returned out picnic items to my home, we went out to the Coop – the most affordable grocery store around us. Lisa had not been before and I wanted to help her learn more about the city. The Coop is beyond the central historical center of Florence, just outside/east of the Porta Beccaria.

Trattoria Dante - Florence, Italy

24 October 2007
I was treated to dinner on a cold and rainy night here in Florence by the charming Clare Santacroce. I met Clare in late August or September of this year at Cafe Caffeine in Austin, Texas, shortly before I arrived in Florence. She and her friend Krystal spent part of their Italian holiday in a very charming flat near Piazza Santa Croce in Florence. How convenient was that?
Anyway, I took them to one of my newly discovered and favorite ristoranti Trattoria Dante. It is just down an alley from my place on Piazza Santa Croce. The food is yummy and reasonably priced. But mostly I love the family atmosphere and the fun staff. Crystal and Clare were taught a wee bit of Italian by our multi-lingual waiter. And we really enjoyed watching a young girl acting cute -- a prelude to trouble -- with a family who so obviously eats here a lot.

Clare owns a business making wedding invitations and more. Check it out at:
http://exquisitepapers.com

International Festival - Florence, Italy

Since Thursday evening, Piazza Santa Croce has housed the International Festival. It ends today, but not before my friend Hafiza and I will try out some of the German sausages and sauerkraut. I truly enjoy all of the activity this particular piazza supports. I am so very lucky to be living here in the home of my friend Grazia.

Planet and Moon Watching - Florence, Italy

Coming home after a wonderful dinner made by my friend Rachel and then dancing with Skye and Rachel, I saw this lovely vision in the sky above the Basilica di Santa Croce. I wish I had a decent camera with me -- can you see the dark roundness of the moon? And what is that planet that is so incredibly bright next to him? Stars are not often visible in the perhaps smog that settles over Firenze, so I was delighted by this early morning view.

La Bella Luna - Full Moon Over Florence, Italy

Oh how I love the moon! I know that I am a Leo, but always, I have felt a stronger
connexion to la luna. And tonight he is full and filled with beauty. But alas, there are many clouds and a wee bit of rain over Firenze, and I cannot see him tonight. Last night, I went to meet a friend in Piazza Signoria about le ora 20:00. The moon was rising perfectly behind the Basilico of Santa Croce. I only had a 'snap and shoot' digital camera with me, which can never capture the moon as the eye sees him.

And while I waited for my friend, I entered the Loggia near the Uffizi Museo/Galleria (where the sculptures are), and snapped more fotos of the full moon caught under an archway that connects the Uffizi to the Palazzo Vecchio. I was hoping of a repeat display tonight so that I may obtain better images on my digital SLR. Hmmmmmmm. I hope you enjoy this others from last night. Buona notte!

"Blue Madonna" - Painting

Hello again. I had such a good response painting my version of the "Blue Madonna" by Carlo Dolci on Via Calimala in Florence, Italy, last Wednesday. Some examples:
One Italian couple asked me why I was not painting on "tela" -- the Italian word for 'canvas'.
I received a possible commission to create a mural in a small town about 40 km from Firenze.
And one very lovely American girl from New York with big brown eyes (who looked a little like the actress Anne Hathaway) exclaimed that this was the most striking painting she had ever seen here -- and "I live right over there [she points] and I walk down this street everyday to see the art!"
Another man returned to my space around midnight to find me washing my artwork away. He shook his head and said, "I do not know how you can make it disappear. That [artwork] was brilliant!"

Brilliant? Perhaps not, but I appreciated his sentiment just the same. That said, I decided to start painting, now that I am more settled and have finished my application for 'rinnovo' of my 'permesso di soggiorno' -- renewing my 'permission to stay' permit. And why not create something more permanent in this striking blue? Here is a view of my little room above Piazza Santa Croce. You may see my work-in-progress on the right. While I was all gung-ho to get to
work, I realized that I had forgotten to buy some mineral spirits for oil painting -- cannot take THAT with one on the plane. (Oh - yes, my lagging piece of luggage was delivered to me at my friend Jay's apartment last Monday, so all is well on that end.)

Since it was about 1:30 p.m. when I realized I could not oil paint (and most shops in Italia are closed for a long and social lunch), I chose instead to do an under-painting in acrylic. This is what you see here. After 3:30 p.m., I was able to get back to the art supply store and buy some 'trementina' -- turpentine (spirits were not available). I will keep you posted, so stay tuned . . .