Art, Architecture and Food in Bologna Italy

Ohhh, I owe some darling readers a huge apology! A lot of people tell me that I am living the dream life because I live in Florence, Italy. And while I do love it here and know that it is where I need to be for the moment, life here is not always la bella vita. Since I last wrote to you, I have been on a short trip to Florida to spend some time with my family, was ill and in a lot of pain, and I have been living out of boxes for too long now. I have not written a blog entry in a while because I am having withdrawal pains from creating art, have been sorting out a new life in a new home and some changing relationships, and in general, not feeling myself.

Sometimes someone writes to me to ask if she may write a guest post on my blog. I recently decided to try this out until I can get my feet back on the ground and my head out of the clouds for a bit. Angie Picardo is my first guest blogger and she has chosen to write to you about Bologna, a city north and east of Firenze (Florence’s real name). The artwork is one of mine . . . as are each of the photographs. Thank you for reading!

Art, Architecture and Food in Bologna

Often overshadowed by its better-known neighbors, Bologna is quite a hidden gem. The city offers myriad rewards for the intrepid traveler intent on finding one of the best arts scenes that Italy has to offer.

Bologna’s origins date to 1000 BCE. It was first settled by the Etruscans and Celts, followed by the Romans, and then as a free municipality in the Middle Ages. The city boasts the oldest university in the world – University of Bologna – founded in 1088. Its thousands of students still contribute heavily to Bologna’s vibrant art and culture scene.

The city’s historic center is well-preserved, and it defines Bologna as an artistic and culturally important city. The architecture is distinctive for its warm colors, including vibrant reds, burnt oranges, and yellows. Miles of porticos extend throughout the town center. For museum buffs, the art is world-class. For example, the National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna) features a wide range of fine art, including Renaissance portraiture, Mannerism, works of Carracci, and paintings by Guido Reni. The Archeaological City Museum (Museo Civico Archaologico) contains artifacts from almost every stage of Bologna’s civilization. The Roman section features the statue attributed to Emperor Nero, and Etruscan artifacts include rich funeral attires from ancient tombs. Other notable museums include the Medieval Museum, the Municipal Ancient Art Collection, and the International Museum and Library of Music, each featuring impressive collections.

Bologna was named a “European Capital of Culture” in 2000. Because of this distinction, the city raised close to $10 million to transform an underdeveloped neighborhood into an arts district featuring the Manifattura delle Arti, or Factory of the Arts. Many formerly vacant spaces quickly became dynamic hubs of culture. For instance, a slaughterhouse in the area was refurbished as the Cinetica – an institute for film restoration and study – that features free screenings for the public. Art galleries and design studios have sprung up across the city, as young artists flock to join the creative resurgence in Bologna. These galleries include Galleria Neon, Agenzia 04, Metropolis Photogallery, and Stile Libero.

A number of sites have been created to facilitate mingling amongst the creative class. For example, Non mancare! (Don’t miss) the Zo Caffe which serves as a café, art gallery, and venue for ambient-music DJs. In addition, new destinations crop up every month. 2012 marked the long-awaited grand opening of the city’s modern art museum called MAMbo. The 9,500 square meter space brings innovative exhibits from some of the most dynamic artists of contemporary art, featuring nine permanent displays ranging from the latter half of the twentieth century to the present.

Bologna is also renowned for its cuisine; it stands out even in a country known for food. The abundance of classic Italian food has given rise to the town’s nickname, La Grassa, or “the Fat One.” Many Italian specialties originate from Bologna, including tortellini, mortadella and, of course, Bolognese sauce. A number of expansive food markets, including Mercato di Mezzo and Mercato delle Erbe, attract shoppers interested in the freshest local ingredients from nearby farms. Some of the best restaurants in the area – and it’s no easy feat to narrow it down! – include Da Marco (known for its seafood pasta), Diana and its old-fashioned ambience, La Terrazza’s classic Mediterranean fare, and Da Fabio. Visitors with a sweet tooth can find locally-made chocolate at Roccati, Lagana and Drogheria Gilberto, all of which feature fine candies, chocolates and pastries.

Visitors will be pleased with the Mediterranean weather, especially in March through October, when the warmest months allow outdoor enjoyment of food and drink.

Angie Picardo is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance and travel site dedicated to helping people learn how to get the most from their money, whether it’s booking flights for vacation or choosing between a traditional or Roth IRA. As an undergraduate, she spent time abroad in Florence and hopes to return to Italy for a trip to Bologna.

From Kelly: Happy Summer solstice for the northern hemisphere! We are certainly feeling the summer heat here in Firenze, but we are in the valley of many mountains. Perhaps Bologna is much cooler.

Gardens in Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

I cannot help loving the Renaissance City, aka Florence, Italy. I do not always know why, but there it is. However, there are a lot of times in which I feel out of kilter and that is when I cannot be near a tree. So much of the greenery in Florence is hidden behind walls. I was once told that an open door in Italia is an invitation. I am not convinced that I believe this, but there are times in which I act as if I do!

Just over a week ago an American sculptor living in Italy came to Florence (Firenze) and asked if we could get together. Tammy Duris had contacted me many years ago in Colorado and recently we ended up spending a fun day together walking around central Florence. While peeking into an open archway near my home, we started speaking with the security guard. I was happy that Tammy asked him if the space was a residenza. He responded, “No, si tratta di una casa." So, then I asked him what was the difference between residenza and a casa (house). He explained that the first was a place for rent, the second a private home.

And then to my utter delight, he told me that he would allow us to go in if we went only into the courtyard straight ahead and did not linger or explore the other areas. So, I was able to see some trees and flowers! And even a sculpture! It was certainly not the prettiest garden space that I have seen, but my point is that so much of Firenze is hidden. So when you see an open door, sometimes you may just get to walk through it!

Just a reminder, this workshop is coming up soon:

"Portrait Painting with Artist Kelly Borsheim" May 17-19, 2013, Sanford, Florida (near Orlando)

Michelangelo Architectural Design Butterfly

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

Some of my paintings and even sculpture have involved doing some research on my basic idea. Sometimes that is because I do not remember details or want to get a related quote exactly right, but often I know that when I am trying to clarify an idea growing in my brain, researching often leads me to a stronger way to express the idea.

Such is the case with my newest painting in the works now. I do not want to give too much away, but like many of my works in the last several years, the basic idea is about transitions. As in my painting "Le Scale dell'Eros", my new work includes the shape of an animal; in this case, I am using a butterfly to symbolize a metamorphosis type of transition.

I first came to Italy in 2004 with a desire simply to touch the work of one of my first sculpture teachers, the great (and very late) Michelangelo. Since that wonderful experience, I had a desire to live with more art around me on a daily basis and thus Italy, especially Florence, was a strong pull. Can you imagine my delight that my research on the Greek myth that accompanies the butterfly idea led me to a butterfly shape designed by Michelangelo? It is an architectural idea he had for the Porta al Prato in Florence. I do not believe it was ever realized… but still. Here is what I found . . .

Add to this that I am trying to push myself in a slightly new direction. I do not really know exactly where I am going, but having created art for many years now, I trust the process to bring me to places that I had not really thought of, but will be appropriate for where I am in my life in the time of the painting’s creation. That sounds a bit “foo-foo” to even me, but … do what you like with it.

That said, one thing that I have struggled with since I was ten years old is the fear of losing things (people really). But for this painting, I want the butterfly form to be more subtle than most things I have painted before. In an attempt to let go without fear of losing the communication of my idea, I sketched the architectural design of Michelangelo on my canvas in charcoal until I was satisfied with the proportions. [(I prepped the 90 x 130 cm canvas with a blue campitura).] I then painted the lines loosely in a blue-umber color. [See the lower left section of the butterfly.]

After letting that be for a small time, I then went in with a blending brush and mushed all of the edges. I tried to loosen up and let the brush strokes soften everything. I want to build from this basic shape and create a composition that I find mysterious, intriguing, and expressing an emotion… in all honestly, I am not sure what. This is a painting idea from something I have felt for many years now, having spent my life in my recent past going back and forth from Texas to Italia. Would you like to follow the journey with me? Or maybe it would be best for me to wait to see if I am successful in this endeavor?

There is still time to sign-up for the workshop that I will be teaching in central Florida this May. I hope you join me and let us make some art and work with designing a portrait!

"Portrait Painting with Artist Kelly Borsheim"

2013 Art Workshop Dates:
Friday, May 17 from 6-9 pm;
Saturday, May 18, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (lunch is from 1 to 2 p.m.) and
Sunday, May 19 from noon to 5 p.m., 2013
(14 hours in total)

Location: Private historic Victorian estate in Sanford, Florida (central Florida). Paid attendees will be given the address before the workshop begins, but the location is near Country Club Road on Highway 46A.

In this hands-on introductory weekend portrait workshop, you will learn how to improve your drawing and observation skills for creating a portrait and how to achieve a more 3-dimensional effect in your art using pastels and charcoal. Or you may prefer to work with oil paint.

Happy Liberation Day, Italia!

Il Montino Pisa Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

In my last blog entry, I shared with you some images from the free exhibition in Pisa, Italy, about the paintings of Artemisia Gentileschi and the costume designs on Anna Anni. Today, I want to show you images of my day trip to Pisa (from Florence). My friend Simone and I did not go into the main piazza where the famous Leaning Tower exists, although we could see the tip of the tower from various points around the city we did visit. I am happy to say that he was able to change my opinion of Pisa in a good way.

After seeing the exhibition at the Palazza Blu, Simone took me to a hidden little gem in which the locals favored. It is called Il Montino and was tasty and affordable. It is tucked away to the left of a short clock tower not too far from the river.

You may see more images of Pisa in my Facebook page, look in the photo album titled “Day Trips.”

Thank you for any amount of appreciation for the time of writing and creating images to share with you. Glad you have you along on this journey!

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=3M3UZTASNLCPL

Artemisia Gentileschi Anna Anni Palazzo Blu Pisa Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

Last week, my Florentine friend Simone invited me to go to Pisa with him to see the free exhibit of the paintings of Artemisia Gentileschi, a good painter who was the contemporary of Michelangelo. And a woman: A financially successful woman artist.

I actually used one of her figures in a work I created for my first exhibit in Italy “Kelly Borsheim: Luce dall'oscurità.” The Gentileschi work that I “lifted” was a composition of “Susanna and the Elders.” I looked for this painting in the current exhibit at Pisa’s Palazzo Blu, but they showed a different one of the same title, equally enchanting. I show it here with my friend as a size comparison. Palazzo Blu is literally a blue building and quite easy to find along the river.

I was delighted that my favorite piece in the show was “Allegoria della Pittura” (Allegory of a Painter, 1638-1645) by Artemisia Gentileschi and is in a private collection. For me, that is a bit of the point to attend these collective exhibitions of one artist. Otherwise, you might never see a work owned by private hands. I show my horribly blurry image of the portrait painting here.

The surprise that even Simone did not know about was the exhibit on the costume designs by Anna Anni Normally, I am not so interested in fashion, except maybe perhaps in a bizarre way. But I was intrigued by these costumes, for me a bit of another world, old-fashioned, charming and yet… je ne said quoi. See what you think. I might be a bit too romantic…. Or thinking too much of vampires.

The exhibit at Palazzo Blu in Pisa, Italy, continues FREE until 30 June 2013. Get by to see it and spend a lovely day checking out the sights in Pisa OTHER THAN the famous piazza containing the Leaning Tower.
Palazzo Blu
“Artemisia Gentileschi nel 1632: La musa Clio musa della Stori e gli anni napoletani.
(Cleo the muse of history and the Naples’ years)

Dopo il successo della mostra Wassily Kandinsky. Dalla Russia all'Europa BLU | Palazzo d'arte e cultura presenta la nuova iniziativa. Fulcro dell'iniziativa è il dipinto eseguito da Artemisia Gentileschi nel 1632: Clio musa della Storia. La mostra, che propone importanti dipinti, inediti o mai visti in Italia, si concentra sugli anni napoletani dell’artista e approfondisce le nostre conoscenze sulla sua cospicua produzione partenopea e sulle sue vicende biografiche nella capitale del Vice Regno e in Toscana, dove Artemisia conservava interessi e proprietà.

Costumi di scena: Anna Anni e l'Officina Cerratelli

La nuova iniziativa di Palazzo Blu, realizzata in collaborazione con la Fondazione Cerratelli, è un omaggio ad una delle più celebri costumiste italiane. Anna Anni, infatti, ha firmato centinaia di produzioni per prestigiosi teatri in tutto il mondo. La mostra mette in risalto, oltre alle sue splendide creazioni, il legame professionale con Franco Zeffirelli e con tutti quei registi e artisti che con Anna Anni hanno condiviso il suo successo.

Orvieto Cathedral Duomo Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

Here are some of my images from the Duomo (Cathedral) of Orvieto, in the region of Umbria, Italy. The building was started in late 1290. The church is designed with stripes of stone, alternating green and white similar to the Duomo in Siena that earns the nickname of “the zebra castle” with one of my friends back in Texas

While many hands are sometimes involved in the designs of Italy’s landmark buildings, Sienese architect and sculptor Lorenzo Maitani gets the credit for designing the façade. It does not feel like it when you are there, but the position of the church is such that one may see the full face of the church from a great distance from the city. It rises above the other architecture and Caroline told me that on a sunny day, that gold is gloriously broadcast about!

I also enjoy the addition of the pink stone on the façade. As in the famous Duomo of Florence, Italy, the white, pink, and green combinations serve to simply and sooth the eye when framing the more complicated compositions of the mosaic designs. The dark green bronze sculpted doors and sculpture also do this. I was amused that this piece of architecture featured so many statues of animals seeming to “take a leap” off of the face of the church.

Oh, the stories these carvings in marble tell! It is a shame that the lower part must be covered by a semi-transparent protective barrier. I often wonder what is the protection from – vandals or the extremely high numbers of adoring fans and maybe believers who just want to rub on the artwork. Enjoy!

Click here for more information about the workshop: http://www.borsheimarts.com/art-workshops/2013ArtPortraitWorkshopFlorida.htm

Orvieto Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

Once the site of an Etruscan acropolis, Orvieto, Italia, is one of those places that you see in a lot of postcards. While my friend Caroline and I did not have much time on our way back to Florence from southern Tuscany recently, she wanted to show me the impressive Duomo (cathedral) in Orvieto, so we drove on up the hill and into the parking garage. Very few vehicles are allowed into this walled city and it was fun to ride up into it in an elevator with a dog! [Dogs are pretty much allowed everywhere in Italia.]

Even on the overcast day when we were there, you may get a sense of history and beauty of this town that I will definitely revisit! This little outdoor bar/ristorante shown here is right next to the Duomo of Orvieto, but I will keep those Duomo images for the next post.

Also, I had hoped to publish this post on Easter Sunday because I was really struck by the gentle face of Jesus in this fresco, also not far from the Duomo. But time slipped away from me and timing has rarely been my strong point. I have written about the Tabernacoli fiorentini, which got my attention by their sheer abundance and my friend Simone’s explanation about these shrines having been created outside in order to slow down the spreading of the plague. The protective Plexiglas makes most of these tabernacles very difficult to see, much less photograph. Peccato!

There is a simple composition in this fresco that felt comfortable in my brain the way many others have never done. In art, vertical lines often portray an emotion of security, the way that tall buildings and trees give us a sense of strength and solidity. [Horizontal lines are peaceful; diagonals are where the action is.] The slight lean of Christ’s body and his parallel cross break up the normalcy of ordinary vertical lines and it feels to me as if there is a sense of movement or life in this image.

And while it has obviously worn away, the fresco-making process shows us the outline of what once was a huge sweep of drapery on the figure that leads the eye up to the Cross. I suspect most people would not think of such a thing, but I like it that the diagonal lines are looking down from the right. We in the Western world read from top left to lower right. I flipped this image in my mind’s eye and decided it had more grace and surprise for me, maybe even a more contemplative feel, by having this diagonal energy moving “back into” the composition (ie from upper right to lower left). So, I am now curious to know how a person who reads in another direction would response to the shapes in this figure composition.

I also think it is cool that you do not see the figure’s lower legs or feet. A good design is a good design, even as it is eroding before our eyes. I hope you enjoy my snapshots of Orvieto, Italy.

Because time got away from me and I have been very busy dealing with my taxes and a new housing contract and other such head-twisting tasks, I decided to extend the early bird savings deadline for my portrait workshop in Florida… the new deadline will be April 17, 2013 – two days after the IRS tax filing day. Just in case you are as side-tracked from art as I have been lately. Click here for more information about the workshop: http://www.borsheimarts.com/art-workshops/2013ArtPortraitWorkshopFlorida.htm