Saturday, February 11, 2017

Seafood in Tuscany Noci d’Oro



Dear Art Lover,
     I have been a workaholic for most of my life.  The instability I gained after my divorce in 2011 had me feeling that I needed to work even harder just to survive out of my own again.  However, for a variety of reasons, it took me five years before I could find a place to call home and feel somewhat safe that I might not lose this one.  With multiple moves (including a temporary one to Croatia and my big one to Italy from the US), my work habits have taken a beating.
     I have been in my new home for just over a year now and judge harshly what I accomplished art-wise in 2016.  Logically, it was not so bad.  I did two large-ish sculptures [one stone, one bronze], finished a few paintings, started several others, and even sold some work from my online efforts.  I have always believed that when the actions do not match the words, the actions show the true desires.  I have not yet decided if I am just out of practice now or if I am truly seeking to change something in my life so that maybe I will be lucky in love and find a peace and balance that elude me more than bring me joy.

   So, I have tried to take an interest in learning to cook.  But the truth is that I do not want to – really.  Like car mechanics, I really wish that I already knew how to do those things, but I do not want to take the time to learn them!  [This is not unlike my desire for understanding and speaking Italian, sadly!]

     So when my landlord hosted a dinner party the other night at his rental house next to the one I rent from him, and hired my neighbor Riccardo, his other tenant and a cook at a nearby restaurant, to prepare all of the food, I asked Riccardo if I could tag along when he went shopping for this seafood dinner.  The one thing I hear most often and consistently from those who love to cook is that buying the right ingredients (in the right condition) is more than half the skill.

shopping for seafood in Tuscany Italy


 
Frozen octopus in Tuscany Italy
Frozen octopus
     Being in the hills of Tuscany and not close enough to the sea to buy fresh, fresh seafood, Riccardo drove us to a market that specializes in seafood and most of it is immediately frozen after caught.  I told him that I heard that if something smells fishy, it is already not fresh.  He said the better test often is to look at the eyes.  If they are clear, the fish is only recently dead.  Cloudy eyes are a sign of the longer-dead and to be avoided for purchasing. Just in case you were curious.  I am not sure how one would judge cut seafood.

     The store is very clean and contained a huge variety of dead and often shrink-wrapped sea life.  Riccardo bought octopus, a variety of shrimp, clams, squid, and several varieties of whole fish.  One I thought must have been a bottom-feeder by the flatness of his underside; his top a triangular form.  Riccardo confirmed this, but alas, I cannot remember the name of the fish in Italian to translate it to English.  [See how interested I am in learning? Oy yoy] 

     We brought it all home after shopping at a regular grocery store for the extras needed for the dinner of 15 people.  Riccardo ended up sitting the stuff outside with water raining down over it for fear the food would not thaw in time.  His seafood soup required about two hours of cooking, after he cut and cleaned all of the goodies.  While he was working, our landlord and his cousin came by in their Misericordia uniforms.  They had ambulance duty that day.  The young one, Silvio, is paid to work there each day, but most of the men here volunteer for service, usually one day every two weeks, but some do more.  Anyway, the guys dropped by in the afternoon to check on anything that needed to be done and after a 12-hour day for Silvio, they showed up for dinner, still in uniform (much to my delight!).  

shopping cart of sea food Tuscany Italy
This would have freaked me out completely when I was a child!

Some sweet Italian men two in Misericordia uniforms
These guys are two of the reasons I have ridden in an ambulance here!

One way to thaw frozen seafood octopus squid fish
One way to thaw frozen seafood
      I took off in the afternoon to my yoga therapy class and was charmed to see some freshly washed stuffed animals on a line outside of a window in my little village.   
freshly washed childrens stuffed animals Tuscany Italy hung on clothesline

     And shortly after yoga class started, one of the ladies passed me as we walked around the room, loosening up.  As she did, she put four of these “noci d’oro” (golden nuts) in my hand.  She explained that this is a custom to share with friends what I believe are gold-wrapped almonds to celebrate her and her husband’s 50th wedding anniversary!  Everyone in our yoga class got a small handful of these.  Fifty years of married life!  Imagine.  In the car after class all of these older married Italian ladies (I am the youngest in the class by about two decades maybe) agreed that it is not easy, even for their husbands. 

Noci d'oro to celebrate a 50th wedding anniversary
Noci d'oro to celebrate a 50th wedding anniversary in Italy
     Such bittersweet celebrations, though, especially because one of the ladies in the car just lost her beloved husband.  While we like to be happy for others, no doubt these events remind us of beautiful things we may never experience.  He was a man much loved in this community and I was honored when I was asked by his granddaughter if I had a photo of this man for the funeral service (and I did!).  Like many experiences in my adopted country, the funeral, my second to attend in Italy, was a surreal experience.  But, I digress, as I do.  Oh, I never opened my noci d’oro.  Instead, I handed them out to the married couples who attended the seafood dinner, as a sort of good luck charm.

Octopus being chopped up for seafood soup Toscana Italia
Octopus being chopped up for seafood soup: Toscana, Italia
Candied lemons from garden; spinach, ham, and tomato pie Italy
Candied lemons from garden; spinach, ham, and tomato pie
Cooking seafood soup Tuscany Italy
And the seafood soup gets started - 2 hours roughly
Seafood varieties cut up by cook Riccardo Tuscany Italy
Mussells for spaghetti, on the left; other soup ingredients cut.

Riccardo cooks up some seafood soup Tuscany Italy
No small feat:  Cooking for 15 people!

Seafood soup made in Tuscany Italy
I admitted to Riccardo that this looked like Klingon food to me.
     In the end, I returned too late to see much of the cooking while I got myself cleaned up and went over to help set the table and later wash dishes; we cleaned up the rest the next afternoon.  However, before dinner, a couple of the guests/our friends came over to see the progress of my mural, a fake window with scene that might exist if there was a real window there. I do not work on this often since I have other projects that may help me pay the rent, and the mural became much more involved than I envisioned in that it is a specific landscape. As you may see here, each local Italian who views it starts to point out various locations of meaning to him. This is fun, and seriously, I cannot wait to finish this mural and then have an Open House!  [see image below]

     Happy 50th birthday to my little brother Steve!  Life is pretty amazing and I am glad that you are creating yours to be what you want it to be, including being a great father to a lovely and smart daughter.

     If you like, please have a look at some of my sculpture online here:

Peace and thank you for following this journey with me,

Kelly

P.S.  Subscribe to the art newsletter here (it is FREE):  http://www.borsheimarts.com/contact.htm

The mural work-in-progress of the local landscape Tuscany Italy
The mural work-in-progress of the local landscape-Tuscany, Italy


Happy 50th birthday, brother Steve!
Sister and Brother enjoying the CinqueTerre, Italy

Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Sausage Buying in the Fog



Dear Art Lover,

    Today I would like to share some images from my Facebook post yesterday that had a much higher than usual response rate (positive).  I know that I have let this blog slip a bit, but I have been trying to get my art-making schedule back, as well as going through rehab for my injured knee.  On that latter front, I was relieved to have two specialists in January overturn the verdict for ACL reconstruction surgery that I received from another specialist on 2 Dec.  So, I was given electro-magnetic therapy (for bones) and electro-stimulation therapy (for atrophied quads), as well as a slew of exercises and instructions on how to retrain my brain to walk without limping.

     Another good thing is that I have returned to the mural painting and I hope to keep at it until I can finish it.  It turned out to be way more complicated than I imagined when I started it.  But only because it is not just any landscape.  It is a specific one.

     I also got the green light from my therapist to travel and have booked my flights to the US.  I will mostly be working in Texas, but will be traveling around a bit for family and galleries in April and May.  Drop me a line if you would like to try to meet up, please.

     So, here are the images of my walk yesterday.  A couple of friends saw me on the road and stopped for a hello.  Then Gianni invited me to tag along with them while they went into the small town to buy some fresh sausage from a kill made on Sunday.  I know that my vegetarian friends are cringing at that thought, but hey, at least the Italians here are raising only a few animals in lovely spaces and they use practically everything of the animal.  I was pretty impressed that the little scruffy dog, Gregory, was so well behaved around all of this raw meat.  Not all of it was packed under salt.  He was good even in the van with the meat in a bag underneath his little paws!  He seemed more interested in barking at the windshield wipers when they were in motion than in sniffing out pig. 
Enjoy…  

     If you like, please have a look at some of my sculpture online here:
Peace,
Kelly
P.S.  Subscribe to the art newsletter here (it is FREE):  http://www.borsheimarts.com/contact.htm


Foggy walk in Tuscany, Italy

Buying fresh made sausages in Tuscany, Italy
Buying fresh made sausages in Tuscany, Italy

Salted pig meat in Tuscany, Italy  TEN DAYS
Salted pig meat in Tuscany, Italy, leave for TEN DAYS

Buying fresh made sausages in Tuscany, Italy
Buying fresh made sausages in Tuscany, Italy
dog seems unaware of meat in the same room of Tuscan farmhouse
Surprised that Gregory behaved so well.



Sunday, January 22, 2017

Pietrasanta Dali Viareggio



Dear Art Lover,
     This past Thursday, my wonderful neighbor drove me back to the foundry in Pietrasanta where I recently completed a new bronze garden sculpture, “Rock Towers and Frogs.” 

     Real estate is costly and even most of the foundries that I worked with in the US are not great about storing the molds of their clients.  Here, they made the molds of silicon and plaster, reinforced and with handles made from embedded metal.  John Borsheim and I made the mother (outer/supporting) molds for my sculptures from fiberglass, which I see as a huge improvement.  Anyway, I do not like to see these materials, the only thing that exists now of my original sculpture and therefore necessary for me to keep in good condition, outside and open.  I do not like the exposure to the elements and I do not like the idea that anyone can walk in during the lunch break and take a souvenir, for example, of part of a sculptor’s mold.  Call me paranoid, but people also collect street signs!

     So, it took all of fifteen minutes to load up the car with fourteen separate molds.  This bronze may be ordered if you are interested.  See some of the images of the final piece here:  http://www.borsheimarts.com/sculpture/2016/RockTowersFrogGardenSculpture.htm

Loading up Sculpture Molds from foundry in Pietrasanta Italy
Loading up Sculpture Molds from foundry in Pietrasanta Italy
      Since my friend had never been to Pietrasanta [Italy] before, we took a little “giro” [walk] around the center of town. Luckily, there is an exhibition going on now for the sculptures of the surrealist artist Salvador Dali.  Because I am in the middle of my knee rehab, we did not go into many buildings and did not stay very long.  Mostly, during the winter time or off-season for tourists, the beaches are closed.  So are almost all of the restaurants.  We had really wanted to eat some seafood along the water, but we did not find an obviously safe place to park for a walk on the beach.

     I include some snapshots of our “giro” and also of our wonderful seafood lunch at Tito del Molo (‘molo’ means ‘pier’ in Italian) in nearby Viareggio.  Viareggio is a city, larger than the working town of Pietrasanta, but even there, many of the eateries were closed.  Viareggio is also famous for its big Carnevale parade, which includes very political floats and is quite spectacular from what I have seen online and heard from friends [I really make a lousy tourist in crowded places].  Still, we were happy with our meal and I even bought my friend a bottle of the house wine there as a thank you for helping me with this errand.  We got home before dark and our landlord met us there.  The two guys (and Gregory, my landlord’s dog) helped me unload the sculpture molds and put them in a safe place in hopes that I may sell another bronze!

     Knee Update:  On 2 December, I received a diagnosis of a torn ACL and was told that I needed to wait until mid-January before the surgeon would know WHEN he could operate.  The surgery requires a six-month minimum rehabilitation.  However, recently, I saw another specialist and also got feedback from a doctor friend of my landlord.  Their verdicts are that the MRI does NOT show a torn ACL.  Instead, I was prescribed an electro-magnetic therapy to help the blood-saturated, spongy bones in my tibia (mostly) and an electric stimulation therapy to jumpstart my atrophied quadriceps muscles.  I was finally given instructions on how to ride my in-home bicycle (how often and other details), as well as a series of exercises (balance and relearning to walk).  I am almost half-way through that therapy, and the glucosamine supplements will continue for many more weeks.  Naturally, I hope this works.  Thank you for all of your questions and kind remarks.

     Now, please enjoy these images.

     If you like, please have a look at some more of my sculpture online here:
and again, welcome to 2017.
Peace,
Kelly
P.S.  Subscribe to the art newsletter here (it is FREE):  http://www.borsheimarts.com/contact.htm

 
Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy
I miss my real BIKE! 

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy
The main piazza in centro Pietrasanta, Italy

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy
Because I am too lazy to write (actually, got some cooking to do)

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy
Note the signature melted clock on the neck

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy
crooked window in centro Pietrasanta Italy
I love this crooked window!  Entering the Museo dei Bozzetti

modern day traffic problems in centro Pietrasanta Italy
Modern Day traffic
funky wall decoration shop in centro Pietrasanta Italy
Funky outside wall decoration for shop, Pietrasanta, Italy

construction props in centro Pietrasanta Italy
nice juxtaposition of shapes

window shopping in giro in centro Pietrasanta Italy
Cool entrance in Pietrasanta

amazing marble carving in a church in centro Pietrasanta Italy
marble carvings in small church near the main piazza

Salvador Dali Sculpture Exhibition in centro Pietrasanta Italy

Onto Viareggio for lunch at Tito del Molo, near the main pier.

Viareggio for seafood lunch at Tito del Molo restaurant
Pasta with fresh anchovies (not salted)

Viareggio for seafood lunch at Tito del Molo restaurant
Rhombo (fish) with potatoes and olives (basil for a tail)

Viareggio for seafood lunch at Tito del Molo restaurant
odd, but interesting decor, no?

Viareggio Tito del Molo restaurant apples and pineapples with gelato and caramel creme
apples and pineapples with gelato and caramel creme

Ah, home sweet home and my sculpture mold safely recovered!
Now, I just need to sell some more sculpture!
Italy sculpture mold storage
Gregory, curious about everything!