Landscape Painting Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

I will write more about the wonderful stone carving symposium in Castelvecchio di Pescia in northern Tuscany as I get my thousands of images organized.  (Should we still call digital images ‘photographs’?  hmmm, I have always had a problem with labels and categories.)  In the meantime, I am spending part of my day away from the computer and getting back to my adored charcoal drawings.  

Before I took off for my stone adventure, I went landscape painting with a couple of friends around Florence.  I have always been a bit intimated by landscapes… Nature offers us so much information that she can sometimes shut me down and I mentally wander off on some obscure path.  However, in my recent attempts with pastel in the gardens around Firenze, it became apparent to me that my first hurdle would be to get enough DARKS into the composition.  

Artists often hear about how the light of day is bouncing around and shadows are just not as dark as one might think.  (Perhaps this is more a conversation that emerged from painting from photographs since the human eye sees nuance more than a machine can decipher.)  But I need more dark.  So, I put away my pastels for the time being and decided to create tonal studies in charcoal.  I am a bit biased towards monochrome images anyway.

Isn’t my friend pretty, sitting there enticing all of the zanzare (mosquitos)?  I should have painted her in the grasses… In any event, this was during the time that I was not living in a home of my own, with most of my belongings packed up in boxes waiting for my new flat to become available.  Alas, I had no access to my tall easels.  I have a short torso and thus, once I sat down for the view I wanted, everything changed.  Haha.  

I decided that the light foreground grasses would become my subject instead of the obvious Florentine scene along the famous Arno River.  However, I first wanted to put in the darker background objects.  So, I sat up as straight as I could, wiggled around to get the information I needed, … and did I mention “going off on a tangent.”  ???  I got totally absorbed in drawing the land across the river!  Next thing I was aware of was the sun encroaching on our lovely patch of shade.  I have always liked the idea of sunshine, but not often the reality.  Or at least my being directly under her gaze.  

So, the grasses never got drawn.  However, I had a lovely nap.  It is what summers are for, right?

Happy birthday, Aunt Sue!

Castelvecchio Italy Stone Carving Symposium

I am writing to you from Castelvecchio di Pescia, in northern Tuscany.  This is my first real stone carving symposium.  Many exist around the world.   We have seven sculptors here from the following countries:  Bulgaria, Germany, Japan, The Slovak Republic, Spain, Thailand, and USA.  The symposium is a way for a place to gain a sculpture garden for perhaps less money than if they outright bought sculpture suitable for outdoors.  What happens is that an organizer works with his community.  They supply the stone, the transport of such, the carving sites, usually air compressors, with hoses, electricity, and tables, etc. for the creation of the art.  Artists are given their own working space, although usually they are together on one site.  Often it is a place in which tourists and locals alike can watch the progress of the sculptures being created. 

Artists are also given places to sleep and freshen up, as well as provided all meals.  When possible, the community also gives artists a stipend to cover travel expenses and money with which to live and pay bills.  In any event, during the event, artists are taken care of and allowed to do what we do best.  We are often happy because it is fun to work in proximity to other artists and art lovers.  And we get to travel to new places! 

You may remember my friend and street painting colleague Kumiko Suzuki from my book "My Life as a Street Painter in Florence, Italy."  She is also a sculptor of stone.  She and  I came by train from Florence to Pescia and were greeted by Rita and Maurizio, who drove us to Castelvecchio.  Yesterday, the sculptors were driven up into some nearby mountains in the same valley, near a town called Vellano.  There at the quarry, we chose our desired stones to carve.  We will be working with "Pietra Serena," a stone native to these parts.  It is grey, with a light brown closer to the surface, but is sometimes confused with concrete.  You may see it in most of the construction in Tuscany, including Firenze (Florence).

Well, the wonderful sons of some of our hosts set me up with this laptop so that I could work on this blog writing while my stone was being delivered from the cave (Italian for "quarry").  My stone is in place at my work site now... I must go.  The last day of the symposium is 3 August... come on over if you can! 

Carlo Dolci Uffizi Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

One of my Florentine friends asked me to join him as his guest to the Galleria degli Uffizi last Saturday morning.  One of his friends works at the famous museum here in Florence, Italy, and gave him a pass for two that he may use anytime he likes.  No queue!  And free!  

One of the perks for those who live here (and have the Uffizi Card) is that if it becomes easy to visit a museum, one does not feel the “pressure” to see or even try to see the entire collection on exhibit.  So, while we actually sat down in the Botticelli room for a bit and peeked our heads into a few favorite areas, in general we dodged the tourists in an attempt to visit some of the latter rooms.  My friend said that he is often visually exhausted by the time he gets close to the end and does not often spend much time there.

Well, as we wandered around, noting that several rooms we hoped would be open were not (renovations), we stumbled upon an exhibit of which neither of us had been aware!  The exhibit is titled, “Il Gran Principe Fernando de Medici (1663-1713)” and features some truly marvelous works of art in the private Medici collection.

In my book about my experiences street painting in Italy, I shared with you that my first street painting was “The Blue Madonna” by Carlo Dolci.  I had seen the original portrait years before in Florida and never forgot it.  So, perhaps you can imagine my joy when I saw Carlo Dolci’s portrait “St. Mary Magdalen.”

I do not really know how to explain my emotional response to Sig. Dolci’s paintings.  In general, I am not fond of portraits, religious ones or not (although in truth the religious topics often strike me as more dramatic and well done than secular subjects).  There is a quality to the painting that moves me.  The face is softly lit, softly modeled; the figure perfectly posed for her expression.   The jewelry on the dress, the round container that she is holding, the eyebrows, the delicate lips, the hands, the skin itself:  absolutely breath-taking!

Apparently the Grand Prince felt something similar.  Upon his death, the museum card read, twelve works by Carlo Dolci were found in his collection.  This Magdalen portrait was in his “private chamber” (and I do not think that refers to the bathroom - ha!).  I apologize for the glare on each of these snapshots.  I could not find a position without one.  Also, the book for this exhibition is wonderful (40 euro price tag).  However, the image of this Carlo Dolci painting in the book was too light and more than usual, lacked some emotional quality of the original. The darker background in my shots is more like the experience one had in the museum standing right in front of this work of art.  I hope you can find a painting that moves you and teaches you as well.  I was glad that I received this little gift of a trip to the Uffizi!

Ponte Santa Trinita Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

My father has often shared his belief that while a sunset may be beautiful, it cannot compare with a sunset shared.  While I appreciate this as true, I struggle with it as well.  So much of my life has been spent alone and far too many mystical and gorgeous experiences exist now only in my own memory.  When friends and family get together after a long time apart, they often relive shared times as a way to reinforce the bond between hearts.   One new to the group may recognize the warmth of those connected, but often feels left out a bit.

Until recently, I used to live very close to Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy.  I lived in an old palazzo with a lovely corridor featuring a Della Robbia-looking (I never verified), ceramic Madonna and Child relief sculpture balconies, arched doorways and a tiny staircase winding up the inside that led to a wonderful rooftop terrace.  One former flatmate told me that he had seen the ghost who frequented our building.  She has a good energy though, and was not intimidating at all.

Piazza Santo Spirito is named after the basilica that oversees all of the neighborhood’s activities… it is one of the liveliest squares in all of Florence, day and night.  A large fountain is the centerpiece for this square and there are trees and even flowers to be seen by all (an unusual sight since most greenery in Florence is contained within the city blocks in private courtyards and one can only have an idea of what Firenze is all about by peeking in through the occasional open door).  This neighborhood is on the Oltrarno side, which means the “other side” of the Arno River, the side with fewer tourists and more artisans at work.  It is not always pretty, but I have loved living there. 

For the past three or so months, my life has unexpectedly been altered with an Italian drama involving tax evasion, blackmail, and a few sordid characters.  Ultimately, my fellow foreigner flatmate and I were evicted from our home so that the war between our Florentine landladies and our Florentine flatmate could commence in full force.  I do not even want to know what that means anymore and only feel a great sadness at being evicted because “I was too nice.”  Anyway, for all of the negativity that cost me lots of work time and my health a bit, I am relatively happy in my new place and look forward to healthier living conditions and friendships.

All that said, I live on the opposite side of the city and I miss the green.  I miss the access to 5-euro aperitivo that includes a glass of wine and more food and in a greater healthy variety than a single person could enjoy at home for anything near that price – and with no dishwashing!  The people-watching in Santo Spirito is hard to beat.  But mostly, I miss the easy access to the Trinita bridge over the nearby Arno River.  It has become my favorite spot for watching sunsets.  Sure, I can ride my bike there anytime I want, but I have a lot of work to catch up on and somehow it just seems easier to stay in my own place and get something done.

So, I hope you enjoy this mixed media painting that I made.  Creating art is the best way I know how to share some of my cherished and often solitary joys with you.  Florentine Sunset is a 12” x 16” painting from a view from the Ponte Santa Trinita.  It is available through the Franklin Barry Gallery in Indianapolis, USA. 

Other “cityscapes” can be seen here:  http://www.borsheimarts.com/painting/cityscapes.htm>. 

Incidentally, for all of the negative things I experienced in this past housing situation, there were other people who helped me with information, advice, and even just listening.  Also, several offered and shared with me their homes while my life was in limbo.  Although I was sad to leave, I was also relieved to have it all overwith, and now feel a whole lot of gratitude to long-time and new friends (foreigners and Italians, even Florentines).  Thanks everyone who has been a part of making my life positive!    

~Kelly Borsheim, artist

Roman Roads Vulci Archeological Park Maremma Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

There are more than 120,000 kilometers of public roads in Europe, northern Africa, and beyond that date back to the 4th century B.C. and are attributed to the Romans. Millions have traveled these roads to exchange ideas and merchandise.

The Roman roads were typically built with layers of stone, all fitted in such a manner as to hold each neighboring stone in place. The roads were created by first cutting the path and then removing the dirt along that path.
• The base layer was called “statumen” and consisted of 30 cm high blocks of hard stone.
• The next layer “ruderatio” was another hard layer, but consisting of rounded stones held together by lime in a specific ratio (1:3).
• For the third layer, rows of blocks were placed along the edges of the roads and then the center was filled with gravel. This “pavimentum” was designed in such a way that the edge rocks were extended where the road widened, and served as a place to mount and dismount one’s horse.
• The “Lastricatura” was the final finishing layer and consisted of basalt, a volcanic material.

Roman roads even had mile markers and a system setup for maintenance. Every five to seven miles on public roads there were postal stations and areas set up for communication, as well as places in which to refresh the horses. Within a day’s travel by horseback one could pass six to eight of these stations. Thus, hotels and rest areas were also present along roadsides to accommodate weary travelers.

The images you see here in this post were ones that I took a few months ago while visiting the ghost town of Vulci, Italy. It is in the southern part of Tuscany called Maremma. Specifically, the images (and the information about the Roman roads) are from inside the Vulci Archaeological Naturalistic Park. The park features a beautiful open landscape that is home to the ruins of an entire Etruscan city and necropolis. The day that I was there, much of the park was closed due to renovation and heavy rains. Still, I found the overcast day and slight drizzle added to the atmosphere of this peaceful and historic site. I would not have enjoyed my visit as much on a bright and sunny day.

Thank you for reading. It is good to find my way back!

Kelly Borsheim

Art, Architecture and Food in Bologna Italy

Ohhh, I owe some darling readers a huge apology! A lot of people tell me that I am living the dream life because I live in Florence, Italy. And while I do love it here and know that it is where I need to be for the moment, life here is not always la bella vita. Since I last wrote to you, I have been on a short trip to Florida to spend some time with my family, was ill and in a lot of pain, and I have been living out of boxes for too long now. I have not written a blog entry in a while because I am having withdrawal pains from creating art, have been sorting out a new life in a new home and some changing relationships, and in general, not feeling myself.

Sometimes someone writes to me to ask if she may write a guest post on my blog. I recently decided to try this out until I can get my feet back on the ground and my head out of the clouds for a bit. Angie Picardo is my first guest blogger and she has chosen to write to you about Bologna, a city north and east of Firenze (Florence’s real name). The artwork is one of mine . . . as are each of the photographs. Thank you for reading!

Art, Architecture and Food in Bologna

Often overshadowed by its better-known neighbors, Bologna is quite a hidden gem. The city offers myriad rewards for the intrepid traveler intent on finding one of the best arts scenes that Italy has to offer.

Bologna’s origins date to 1000 BCE. It was first settled by the Etruscans and Celts, followed by the Romans, and then as a free municipality in the Middle Ages. The city boasts the oldest university in the world – University of Bologna – founded in 1088. Its thousands of students still contribute heavily to Bologna’s vibrant art and culture scene.

The city’s historic center is well-preserved, and it defines Bologna as an artistic and culturally important city. The architecture is distinctive for its warm colors, including vibrant reds, burnt oranges, and yellows. Miles of porticos extend throughout the town center. For museum buffs, the art is world-class. For example, the National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna) features a wide range of fine art, including Renaissance portraiture, Mannerism, works of Carracci, and paintings by Guido Reni. The Archeaological City Museum (Museo Civico Archaologico) contains artifacts from almost every stage of Bologna’s civilization. The Roman section features the statue attributed to Emperor Nero, and Etruscan artifacts include rich funeral attires from ancient tombs. Other notable museums include the Medieval Museum, the Municipal Ancient Art Collection, and the International Museum and Library of Music, each featuring impressive collections.

Bologna was named a “European Capital of Culture” in 2000. Because of this distinction, the city raised close to $10 million to transform an underdeveloped neighborhood into an arts district featuring the Manifattura delle Arti, or Factory of the Arts. Many formerly vacant spaces quickly became dynamic hubs of culture. For instance, a slaughterhouse in the area was refurbished as the Cinetica – an institute for film restoration and study – that features free screenings for the public. Art galleries and design studios have sprung up across the city, as young artists flock to join the creative resurgence in Bologna. These galleries include Galleria Neon, Agenzia 04, Metropolis Photogallery, and Stile Libero.

A number of sites have been created to facilitate mingling amongst the creative class. For example, Non mancare! (Don’t miss) the Zo Caffe which serves as a café, art gallery, and venue for ambient-music DJs. In addition, new destinations crop up every month. 2012 marked the long-awaited grand opening of the city’s modern art museum called MAMbo. The 9,500 square meter space brings innovative exhibits from some of the most dynamic artists of contemporary art, featuring nine permanent displays ranging from the latter half of the twentieth century to the present.

Bologna is also renowned for its cuisine; it stands out even in a country known for food. The abundance of classic Italian food has given rise to the town’s nickname, La Grassa, or “the Fat One.” Many Italian specialties originate from Bologna, including tortellini, mortadella and, of course, Bolognese sauce. A number of expansive food markets, including Mercato di Mezzo and Mercato delle Erbe, attract shoppers interested in the freshest local ingredients from nearby farms. Some of the best restaurants in the area – and it’s no easy feat to narrow it down! – include Da Marco (known for its seafood pasta), Diana and its old-fashioned ambience, La Terrazza’s classic Mediterranean fare, and Da Fabio. Visitors with a sweet tooth can find locally-made chocolate at Roccati, Lagana and Drogheria Gilberto, all of which feature fine candies, chocolates and pastries.

Visitors will be pleased with the Mediterranean weather, especially in March through October, when the warmest months allow outdoor enjoyment of food and drink.

Angie Picardo is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance and travel site dedicated to helping people learn how to get the most from their money, whether it’s booking flights for vacation or choosing between a traditional or Roth IRA. As an undergraduate, she spent time abroad in Florence and hopes to return to Italy for a trip to Bologna.

From Kelly: Happy Summer solstice for the northern hemisphere! We are certainly feeling the summer heat here in Firenze, but we are in the valley of many mountains. Perhaps Bologna is much cooler.