Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Baglioni Hotel Florence Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

La mia zia (my aunt) Carole just left Florence, Italy, for Venice this morning. She is traveling around Italy with a group, getting a taste of life here. Unfortunately, she was only here in Florence for two days and we were only able to spend dinner time together. It was so generous of her to treat me to some great meals.

She stayed at the Astoria Hotel, which looked lovely to me. We ate there on Sunday night. The next night, Aunt Carole had invited my friend Skye and me to join a few of her friends for la cena. We ate dinner in the elegant restaurant on top of the Baglioni Hotel and later took a short walk up to the rooftop terraza for a brisk night view of Florence.

The fotos I include here are from the Baglioni Hotel. Both are near the train station (Santa Maria Novella). My stuffed pear (thin flaky) pasta with gorgonzola cheese and . . . rosemarino (I think it was rosemary anyway) was delicious, although the one of my plate looked a lot like a sea turtle to me!

Thank you Aunt Carole – from both Skye and me.


Tonight, I finished my portrait drawing of Skye. I am playing with materials, trying to see what kind of range of tone I can get and to what effect. This portrait of my charming Australian friend was done with white pastel on black paper. After looking at my snapshot tonight, I think I will reduce the brightness of the strands of hair in the lower right corner before I spray fixative over this art to protect her.

This portrait is available. Please contact me via this blog, my site, or e-mail if interested. Skye has a beautiful face and a rather distinctive profile, not to mention a dramatic personality, which I tried to play up in this black and white portrait drawing.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Flights Over Florence

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

I was riding my bike home around noon today and when I got to the Ponte alle Grazie in Florence, Italy, I saw unusual crowds gathered on the bridge. Naturally curious, I pulled over to see what the big deal was. And there were men falling from the sky and landing in the Arno River. Not actually in the river (which is good since the river is disgusting). They were parachuting onto a platform. All four skydivers that I saw landed on the same spot in front of Florence’s famouse Ponte Vecchio.

The last diver let go a stream of colored smoke – red, white, and green, the colors of Italia. This next picture was taken one bridge upstream from the Ponte alle Grazie (ponte is the Italian word for ‘bridge’) shortly after a helicopter flew too close to my head for my taste. It is the Ponte San Niccolò and I ride my bike over this bridge almost once a day.

I apologize for the horrible spots on these images. My Sony digital snapshot has dirt inside the lens and I was told this summer that I would have to send the camera to Sony and pay about $200 to have it cleaned. Since this is not my favorite camera (it has suffered from artifacting ever since I flew to Paris 2 years ago) and new digitals are not much more expensive, I decided to keep this for a party camera until it dies a natural death before I invest in another one. I have it with me almost all the time now.

Ok, now I am out the door to try to find my Aunt Carole, who is visiting Florence for the first time with a group of tourists. Let me see what she thinks of the David and Michelangelo’s unfinished slaves!

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Street Painting in the Rain

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

OK, so I paid to be a street painter every Thursday in November. Today it rained less than last Thursday, but it was still a wash. The skies started to clear up again (like they were in the morning) and I might have been able to tough it out, using newspaper to dry what had not been protected by plastic sheets. However, I locked myself out of the house this morning. I had put a few coins in my pocket to pay for printing today’s reference image, but later, I thought the coins were my keys and did not realize my error until I tried to put on the serious lock on the front door.

I usually work until midnight, knowing that there is a lull of pedestrian traffic here in Florence, Italy, from the hours of eight to ten p.m. as most folks are enjoying the Italian dinner hours at nearby restaurants. But I had sent my padrona a text message that I hoped to arrive home before she went to bed so that I could get into the house. Mezzanotte just would not do.

I tried to paint in the street (Via Calimala) a copy of “Le Crab” by William Bouguereau. I like this painting, in part because it uses the same red-headed girl for the model as “The Elder Sister.” The latter is a painting by the same artist owned (I believe) by the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston (Texas, USA). I love that painting since it reminds me of my two baby sisters, especially the red hair.


Bouguereau is a difficult artist for me to copy because of his subtlety in tones. His work is gorgeous and I understand he was prolific, another of my challenges. I was not happy with my painting today, the proportion or the tones (too contrasty, as is my way). Maybe it was a good thing to be rained out. Besides, perhaps I can get to sleep a bit earlier this evening.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Halloween in Italy


Halloween in Italy

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

OK, so here are a couple images from my Halloween. There are more on Facebook. Basically, it rained so my teased hair fell more quickly than it should have: Kinda takes any terror out of Spider Woman.

And the high heels that I was wearing to keep the dress from dragging in the street came apart in the rain – and on Florence’s famous Ponte Vecchio. No doubt the walk that I was doing to try to keep my balance as I tried to flip the soles back underneath the shoe on each step was what brought my little group to the attention of some of our other friends.

My friends Linda (from Latvia) and Hafiza (a fiorentina) helped me by using masking tape (called ‘scotch’ here in Italy) around my feet. But that did not even hold up to the Palazzo Pitti! Anyway, this gal can make an entrance!

This was Hafiza’s first Halloween (an American holiday, you know) and she loved seeing our friends in costume. I think her favorite was Kieran, the pigeon. Like many tourist-ridden cities, Florence hosts a lot of pigeons. Another friend of mine even told me about a ristorante in which one may eat a pigeon.

Hafiza stayed with me that night and accompanied me as I walked home without coat or shoes. It took about 45 minutes since I no longer live in the central part of Florence. I was amused that at around 3 am along the Arno River, one guy who passed us by actually warned me about catching a raffreddore (relax, that is only a cold).

So, enjoy the fotos. It is interesting to realize just HOW MANY people in other countries pay CLOSE attention to US politics. I only hope that votes are cast wisely.


Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Portraits of an Artist

Cari Amici (Dear Friends),

Lots of my artist friends and I get together on Monday and Tuesday evenings and sit for one another to make portrait studies. It was recently my turn to pose. Because of my spine injury many years ago, I chose to stand. Sitting makes my legs go numb. I must say that I prefer to be the artist and not the model.

My friend Skye Campbell took this photo of me during the pose the first day. All in all, I posed for 8 hours over several days.

Posted here, with permission, are sketches done from these sessions. I will post more as I get images and permissions. These first two are: Pencil Drawing by Skye MacArthur Campbell and I believe a charcoal by Ami Badami. Enjoy.




Friday, October 24, 2008

Art Exhibits in Italy

I am in a hurry, but if in Italy, you may find this info. about art exhibits useful (listed by city):


Arts guide: exhibits in Italy

FERMO - Palazzo dei Priori: leading Marche Renaissance painter Vincenzo Pagani and influences including Raphael, Carlo Crivelli; until November 9.


FLORENCE -

- Galleria Palatina: Flemish Artists in Florence, 1430-1530; the likes of van Eyck, Memling and Leida compared to contemporaries Raphael, Botticelli, Castagno and Ghirlandaio; until October 26.


- Palazzo Pitti: The Medicis And Science; large collection of scientific writings and tools; until January 11.


ISOLA BELLA (LAKE GARDA) - Borromeo Collection of 130 Renaissance and later masters, reopened after renovation; permanent.


ROME - Palatine Hill: Augustus's House on view for first time in 25 years.


- Shenker Culture Club: 28 large religious works by Mario Schifano inspired by ancient Italian divinity Mater Matuta; marks 10th anniversary of artist's death; until October 15.


SIENA - Piazza del Duomo and other city sites: Mario Ceroli, Forms In Movement; giant works by avant-garde sculptor; until November 7.


STRA - Villa Pisani: 70 paintings and monumental works by sculptor Mimmo Paladino, hand-picked and arranged by the artist in the historic villa's magnificent grounds; until November 2.


TIVOLI - Villa Adriana: Between Light and Darkness; Ancient Roman funerary beds including bone-decorated bed from Aquinum and one found on Rome's Esquiline Hill; until November 2.


TRENTO - Castello del Buonconsiglio; first major show on relatively unknown Renaissance sculptor Andrea Briosco aka Il Riccio; until November 2.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Changing Money in Florence, Italy


Cari Amici (Dear Friends),


If I had not been wasting so much time, I might be only amused by the “efficiencies” of Italian banking -- or at least my current experiences with them.
My rent was due last Wednesday. I have been working very hard as a madonnara (street painter) here in Florence, Italy, because, as I suspect most everyone knows, the US dollar is very weak compared to the euro. While I still have to pay off my credit card debts in US dollars, every euro I can earn for spending here saves me heaps in money conversion rates.

Allora, street painters are mostly paid in spicciolo (coins), although I have received many 5 € bills (the smallest bill available) and the other day I was tipped a 20 € bill by an American architect. Sweet! Anyway, I counted out 700 euros in spiccoli. No way I was going to hand that to Doria and Luca, the older couple that I live with!

Last week, Luca went to the Post Office with me. He said they offer a lot of the same services that banks do. But they would not accept my coins unless they were in rolls and they had no rolls to give me. We went to the bank next door. No rolls. Try a café. Well, the café was overwhelmed at the idea of so much change and would not speak with us. Luca told me that he would buy some tubi for me so I could roll the coins and I went on into the studio to work.

That night he told me that I must visit Buffetti, an office supply store across town. I rode my bike there the next morning only to be told, “Prova una banca.” So, I tried a nearby bank. They gave me a few rolls, not nearly enough. Because I am not a client, they refused to help me more.

But the clear plastic tubi were enough to help minimize how much change I ended up handing over for my rent payment. I asked Doria if her bank would give her some tubi since she is a client of theirs. She returned with some plastic ones and also some paper ones, color-coded.

I rolled a lot of spiccioli this weekend and this Monday morning, I entered a bank near my home. I took a number from the machine, but after waiting and watching for a long time, I asked another potential client if this appearance of inactivity was normal in Italy. He responded that the computer was broken. After another minute, I asked a teller if it was possible to do a straight trade of my coins for paper. No, the computer is broken. “Prova una altra banca.”

So, I went to another bank, only to be told they do not accept spiccioli. I started to lose patience, “Scusimi, ma questa è una banca, si?”

“Si, ma prova una altra banca.”

Maddai . . . I thought to myself with the typical accompanying hand gestures.

I crossed the street, happy to find the banks so close. As I exited the revolving security door into the bank, a young teller actually acknowledged me with a “un momento.” Wow. In America I am used to the courtesy of a customer service representative noticing the presence of other waiting customers in this way. But in Italy, it seems they have a different type of politeness: The full attention is put on the current client. Everyone else does not exist. This is different, but if you happen to be the one being served, it feels good to know that the salesman is going to help you without the distraction of other clients.

Anyway, when it was my turn, the teller first asked me what it is that I do to receive so many coins. Then he told me that he could only accept the clear tubi, not the paper ones, because he could not see into those. Fantastico! (a little sarcasm, you see . . . ) I argued that it was a bank that gave them to me, but to no avail.
However, the exchange we did make lightened my load significantly and he actually talked me into seeing him in the morning to discuss my opening an account with the bank. Let me see how this goes . . .



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